PERUGIA One of the best preserved mediaeval cities in Italy, Perugia is Umbria's capital and largest centre (population around 150,000) and the former home of the Flagellants, a bizarre 13th-century sect who whipped themselves for religious penance. Today, it is also home of Perugina, maker of Baci (kisses), those rather delicious hazelnut chocolates, a major university town including Universita per Stranieri one of the oldest Language schools in Italy, and full of excellent shoe shops.

Although the outskirts aren't particularly prepossessing if you're approaching the city by road from Assisi, don't pass by. Start your visit in the city's main square, the Piazza IV Novembre, and see the Virgin Mary's wedding ring in the Duomo di San Lorenzo (the cathedral itself isn't terribly exciting). There's an unbeatable collection of Umbrian art at the Galleria Nazionale in the Palazzo dei Priori and fine frescoes by Perugino at the Collegio del Cambio close by along the pedestrianised main street Corso Vannucci, where you can also indulge in a bit of shopping.

A walk south-east of the cathedral takes you up and down narrow streets to the San Domenico church with a huge stained glass window dating from the early 15th century. Behind San Domenico is an excellent archaeological museum based in a convent.
If you've got small children, take them to Città della Domenica - a 500-acre, Disney-style playground in Monte Pulito, 2km west of Perugia. There's Snow White's house, Witches' Wood, mediaeval museum, reptile house and aquarium, shells from around the world exhibition, games rooms and choice of restaurants. Open daily from mid-March to mid-September, 10am-7pm and at weekends until early November.

Nearby is the famous Lago di Trasimeno, this is the fourth largest lake in Italy, where you can walk, ride, fish, swim and indulge in other watersports: there are beaches around the Magione area. Interestingly, it was on Trasimeno's shores that Hannibal destroyed a Roman army at a battle in 217BC near Tuoro sul Trasimeno.

The main centres are Castiglione, Passignano and Magione. Take a stroll up to the 14th-century castle, Castiglione del Lago, perched on a chalky promontory on the west side. There's an impressive bird-watching area on the eastern side, the Oasi delle Valle, particularly popular in the spring. It's worth taking a stroll round the Isola Maggiore just off the north shore, where you can pick up some attractive lace.